Lizard Man's Travels

This site is a journal of my travels and other adventures while I shift from doing postdoctoral research on tree frog ecology in Darwin, Australia, to research on digestive physiology of lizards and bats in Sede Boqer, Israel. Enough friends have been asking me for regular updates on this journey, that I thought this would be the best forum to keeep everyone up to date (including me).

Monday, August 01, 2005

Mid-Colombia update

I'm a little more than halfway through my stay in Colombia, and I have to say that I'm really impressed with the country. It is clear that most of what I'd heard about Colombia before coming was the bad stuff (not too surprising since that's what the news channels show). I've been really impressed with the diversity of things here. Sure, there is the incredible biological diversity of the lowland tropical rainforests, but there is also the high diversity in habitat types, climate, culture, people, etc. Bogota is quite high (2600m), and surrounded by mountains, so it is quite cool most of the time, though it does still have a tropical sun, which can make it quite warm on a clear day. The mountains surrounding the city are quite high (>3000m), and can be very cool and wet. There is some amazing vegetation there.

Last weekend, we went to a town on the Rio Magdalena (probably the important river in Colombia for transport of various things) call Honda (pronounced 'onda'). There it is quite low and hot - very much like the stereotypical tropics. This week, we spent 4 days in Cartagena, on the Caribbean coast. It was very Caribbean. The people there were quite different - much more of an African influence on the music, appearance, and culture. And they have a strange accent. We spent one day on the Islas del Rosario, about 45 min by boat off the coast. They were pretty amazing - tiny coral islands, with mangroves, and usually a very private looking bungalo. Apparently, most of the little islands are privately owned, and are just big enough for a big bungalo, and a few hammocks.

Cartagena was really interesting. It was an important Spanish fortress, and actually, it was the biggest one built in the Caribbean. The city walls and castle were very impressive. I wouldn't have wanted to try to seige that place. The old city was built in sections, to separate the classes. The outer part was for the lower class and the houses there were relatively small, and only one story tall. The middle class lived a bit farther in, and had two story houses. The richest class lived in the center, and had huge, three-story houses, complete with inner plaza and usually with a fountain (or at least a cistern) and a lot of lush greenery. The first floor was usually quite tall, with maybe 5m ceilings.

There is also a pasable beach there, though the sand and water aren't that great (especially compared to the beaches on the Islands). The main problem with the beach, though is the various venders that constantly harass you. The beaches are public (mostly), but there are groups of people who come and set up little shade huts with chairs. They aren't permanent - they have to set up each morning - and they charge about 5000 pesos for the afternoon (that's about US$2.50). Then, once you get safely seated, the hoardes come by. First is usually someone selling sunglasses, then stone necklaces, then water, oysters, crabs, sweets, fruit, juices, massages, hair braids, t-shirts, swim suits, sandals, and scenic tours. Argh. Needless to say, it wasn't exactly a relaxing afternoon on the beach.

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