Lizard Man's Travels

This site is a journal of my travels and other adventures while I shift from doing postdoctoral research on tree frog ecology in Darwin, Australia, to research on digestive physiology of lizards and bats in Sede Boqer, Israel. Enough friends have been asking me for regular updates on this journey, that I thought this would be the best forum to keeep everyone up to date (including me).

Thursday, December 30, 2004

Ha Carmel Shouk


Ha Carmel Shouk
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
The big shouk in Tel Aviv was really impressive. It went on for several hundred meters, and all of the produce was gorgeous. And tasty. I found some great fruit, vegetables, and brownies. Really great market. I think this was one of the places that had a suicide attack a few months ago, though.

All Star stilletos


All Star stilletos
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Someone will have to explain these to me. I just don't get it.

Tel Aviv Building


Tel Aviv Building
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
I can't really understand this building. It looks like they started with a nice, four-story building, and then the builders went insane. Maybe the architect was trying out a new design for kids toys.

Tel Aviv Beachfront


Tel Aviv Beachfront
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
This is the beach in Tel Aviv. The Mediterranean has beautifully clear water, and the city has a funky beachfront walk.

Continuing saga of passports and plane tickets

When last we left the story of my passport, it was missing somewhere between the Australian Embassy and me. Well, after a week or so of waiting, things finally settled out. I tried calling the embassy, and they said, "no, we can't help you on that. send us an e-mail." I'm not sure who's brilliant idea it was to make the embassy inaccessible except by e-mail, but that's the way it is here. Rather inconvenient. I sent an e-mail and the next day they gave me the name of the Association of Travel Agents, who arranges the couriers between embassies and people (presumably travel agents) for passports. I called them, and they gave me the number of a courier, and a tracking number. Unfortunately, there wasn't anyone home at the courier - all I got was an answering service, several times. Well, finally, after a couple of days of this, i got a call from a driver, who was just up the road. Fifteen minutes later, I had my passport with my visa. Ugh.

On Monday, I embarked on the next travel adventure for my return to Australia. I got on the 6:35am bus to Beer Sheva to catch the train to Tel Aviv. It was my first trip on the Israeli train, and it was not too bad, except for the awful hour of the day. An hour and a half later, I staggered off the train in Tel Aviv. Without my hat. In my daze, I had forgotten it, and before I could get off the escalator, the train left. More on this later.

I made my way to the airline office. Turns out that in Tel Aviv, every airline known to mankind has an office in a two block area. After wandering past Turkish air, and Russian air (not Aeroflot, but Russian air, whatever that is), two offices of El Al, I finally found a Qantas office. The lady there pulled up my file, asked for my ticket, and promptly told me that it was impossible for me to take the flights I'd arranged with Qantas in Australia. Well, I've been in Israel long enough to have picked up a little of the discussion style here, so I immediately raised my voice several decibels and demanded that something be done. This resulted in her printing the rules for my ticket and reading the offensive rule to me several times. After that, she called the British Air office and confirmed that there was no way for me to leave Tel Aviv on my ticket until January 13. Several minutes of 'discussion' later, I had a ticket. For January 13. Bloody One World Alliance. At least I didn't have to pay to have the ticket re-issued because I'm now back on my original routing: Tel Aviv - London - Singapore - Perth - Darwin. Twenty-six hours on the plane, two 1.5 hour layovers, and one 8 hour layover in Perth from midnight to 8am. Ugh.

Tel Aviv is remarkably uninteresting. You'd think that the largest city in Israel would have more going for it. The airlines were a small block from the beach, so I went there to calm down for a bit. I have to say, the Mediterranean waters are quite clear and beautiful. No tsunamis, either. I sat on a breakwater for a while and watched a school of small fish wandering around. I did get to see a tern of some sort dive in and grab a meal. Very interesting. Then, I wandered over to the large shouk that everyone talks about. It was pretty impressive, though really not a lot different from the one in Beer Sheva. Actually, my impression of the whole city was pretty much the same as my impression of Beer Sheva, only bigger. I wandered around a bit, bought some cheap stuff, and headed back to the train.

On the train, I decided to ask the train guy wandering around about my hat. Amazingly enough, someone had turned it in, and it was waiting in the office - in Tel Aviv. At this point, I was a good hour south of Tel Aviv, and really had no intention of going back. So we arranged for it to be sent to Beer Sheva, where I could pick it up the next day. Nothing like having to make another round trip to Beer Sheva to recover from sleep induced stupidity. Oh well, at least the falafel at the bus station in Beer Sheva is good (and cheap).

Tuesday, December 28, 2004

Christmas time

Yes, Christmas passed here without much ado. It still feels a bit strange to be in the middle of winter and have no sign of any sort of holiday celebrations. Actually, that's not entirely true. I was in Tel Aviv today, and somewhere in the middle of the shouk (market) there was a stall that had some Christmas decorations, including, of course, dancing Santas. Otherwise, you'd never know there was a holiday happening (well, there isn't, in fact).

Here in Sede Boqer, the graduate student council decided we needed to have a Christmas party, presumably because there are several students who come from places where such things are celebrated. It was a good party, but not much Christmassy about it. There were some Christmas decorations, including a "Merry Christmas' banner, and even a small tree (plastic, of course). Othwise, it was pretty much a dance party. The council has rigged up an interesting system for these parties, now that the new student 'club' is open (it's a room with some chairs, a booshelf that contains the student 'library', a small fridge, and a stereo). They hook up a couple of laptops to an aplifier, that is then hooked into some club-type speakers. Then someone with a whole lot of music on his laptop (all legally acquired, I'm sure), is the DJ. Good fun. The other nod toward Christmas is that Santa showed up with an orange garbage bag full of candies. I think someone has hacked into Santa's list, because he gave goodies to everyone, and I'm sure some members of this crowd haven't been entirely good this year. Of course, as one of the few males from a country that celebrates Christmas, I ended up as Santa. I'll post photos soon.

The next night, on December 24, the latinos had their Christmas dinner. That was a hoot. Originally, that was planned for someone's house, but we realized that if we tried to cram 15 people into one of these apartments, and food, we wouldn't have any room to move. So we moved it to the only other room available - the room over the laundry room/bunker, where the ping-pong table lives. Originally, it was set for 9:00pm, but this being a latino dinner, that was soon moved to 10:00pm, and with the setup time, and last minute cooking, we finally started eating around 11:00pm. Somehow, this doesn't phase any of the South Americans. The dinner was great, and mostly traditionally South American in flavor, more or less. We had pork, turkey legs, various rice, some interesting desserts, several salads, lots of potatoes of various kinds, and my now standard contribution, pecan pie (thanks Jane!). We ate until we couldn't move. then the party stared. So we moved all the chairs and table out of the room, and hooked up the portable stereo. Lots of music in Spanish followed.

I've noticed a couple of things about the Latinos and their music since I've been here. It seems that all of the latinos know the words to all of the spanish songs. Maybe it is just the limited selection we have here (which isn't all that limited, but there is a limit to it). Songs come on, all the latinos jump up, and they all start singing at the top of their lungs. Makes it hard for a spanish novice to figure out the words, but it is fun to watch.

Well, I bowed out of the Christmas party at 3:30am, but it was still going strong. I'm told that the truly hardy souls lasted until 6:30am. We had so much food at the dinner, that we planned a lunch for the next day with the leftovers. Of course, 'lunch' was at 4:00pm. Somehow, we crammed the whole lot of us into one of the apartments (a 2-person apartment, so it was a tiny bit bigger than mine). After gorging ourselves again, we settled into a rather spirited game of Taki (a card game a lot like Uno, or hearts). Taki is quite a serious pastime in this circle. There were no actual injuries, but several pieces of leftover food crossed the table in graceful arcs to land on someone's head. After lunch, we settle in for a couple of movies. The first, of course, was Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer (thanks Jane!), which had mixed reviews. In general, women liked it and men thought it was silly. After that, we watched a not-entirely-legal copy of Pitch Black (with chinese subtitles, and an occasional shadow moving across the screen as someone in the theater got up to pee). that's a strange movie with Vin Diesel. I can't say I recommend it, but it was free, in a lot of ways.

So, that was Christmas in Sede Boqer.

Tuesday, December 21, 2004

un-consciencious blogger

Okay, as you might have guessed by my long absence, it's been quite a hectic time lately. I gave my lecture in Berry's class. It was mostly on nutrition, a subject that I know almost nothing about. The class meets once a week for 3 hours, a fact which Berry only told me a week before I was supposed to give the lecture. It takes a lot of talking to lecture for 3 hours. I managed to fill up most of the time, though, by cobbling together pieces from several other people's lectures on the topic. I think it came off okay, but I certainly won't be winning any teaching awards from it. Of course, I was working on it right up until late the night before, so never had a chance to preview my full powerpoint presentation before the class. And, as Murphy would predict, I had several slides out of order, which made for a bit of general confusion. I managed to talk enough about research that I was involved with to spark some discussion among the students. Oh, and I should mention that the audience was a class of 3 students, 1 other student who is interested in nutrition, and 3 people from Berry's lab (plus Berry), who probably know more about nutrition than I do.

Immediately after that, I started working on the Departmental seminar that I gave the following week. That was on my PhD work, so it was a lot easier. The hard part is that the project has expanded so much that I can't talk about all of it at once any more, so I had to cut out bits and pieces. Despite the fact that the secretary forgot to announce the talk to the department, there was a pretty good turnout of folks from Beer Sheva and here. It probably wasn't my smoothest presentation of this material, but it seemed to go over well. At least I had a lot of people come up to me afterward and ask questions about it, or just say that they liked it. suddenly I'm not just an anonymous face here anymore. Somehow, these two talks seem to have given people the idea that I'm some sort of expert in something (some even think it's nutritional ecology!). Strange.

Along the way, I was still working on finishing my blood-taking experiments with both bats and lizards. About a week ago I finished my last samples - woohoo! So, now I'm just wrapping up the processing of the samples, for shipping to the US for analysis. I won't actually have data from them until the folks in Madison analyze them (sometime in January), so I'm still not sure how successful the experiments have been. At least I don't have to keep stabbing bat wings, or poking lizards in the eyes. I was getting pretty unpopular among the animals around here. But that's all finished. I finished filtering the last samples over the weekend and am just waiting for them to dry in the drying oven. Later this week, I should be able to ship them off.

The adventures of living in Sede Boqer continue. All of the students are complaining about the thermal conditions in the new, specially designed apartments. As the outside temperature has been dropping, the complaints have been increasing. Several of us (the real nerds) have been taking daily temperature data to demonstrate the uncomfort levels in the apartments. My apartment consistently drops to 13C (55F) overnight, and never gets above 18C (64F) during the day. I'm about a degree colder than most because I'm on the windward end of the complex. The student council has been complaining to the administrators and the architect. The response has been to question whether we're properly opening and shutting the shutters over the windows. See, the apartment is supposed to have passive solar heating - open the shutters and the intense desert sun warms the living space to a comfortable level; then close them at night to keep the heat in. Unfortunately, there isn't enough sun in the winter to warm things up to reasonable levels. And even if there were, there are so many holes in the construction that the heat just leaks out anyway. In some ways, it is surprising that the apartments aren't colder than they are. When asked about drafts, I had to respond that every window has a draft - some even have such big cracks in the seals that I can see daylight through them - and that there are 1cm gaps under the doors. Not sure what they are thinking when they lecture us about not using the apartments correctly. There is also the issue of the huge volume of air in the apartments, most of which isn't anywhere near people using it. There is a huge space over the desk/stairway, that is just open air that needs to be heated. Ugh. At least the wind has died down a bit lately.

Okay, last time, I talked about my adventures with my Australian visa. Those are still ongoing. The latest is that I apparently have a visa, but they haven't managed to get my passport back to me. I got a call from the embassy last week. The woman said that when I pre-paid for registered mail to return my passport, the post office stamped a date on the stamps, which means that the post office won't accept it anymore. So they have sent my passport back to me by special courier, for only an additional 45 shekels, payable on delivery. Okay, fine, but that's not all. Yesterday, I got a call from the courier, who barely spoke english. He said that it would arrive today, but wasn't sure exactly where to find me, which is understandable since I have only an institutional address and no street address. I told him to have the driver call me when he gets here and I'd give directions. I'm still waiting. If it doesn't arrive tomorrow, I'll be nervous, since I don't even know what courier it is, and the Australian embassy isn't very good about answering the phone. I also want to have my passport before going city hopping, which I need to do.

First, I need to go to Tel Aviv to pay for the changes in my plane tickets. The last time I wrote, I was still working on getting a flight from here to Darwin. I think I have solved this problem, though it certainly isn't the idea solution. Now, I'm supposed to leave at 3:30am on January 7, fly to Madrid, where I have about a 7 hour layover, then to London (couple hours), then Singapore (5 hours), and finally arrive in Darwin at 4:50pm on January 9. Yes, that's 54 hours after I leave Tel Aviv, and doesn't include the 2 hour trip to Tel Aviv or the 3 hours I'll spend in security at El Al before boarding. But back to my trip to Tel Aviv... After making these changes, I was informed that I would need to go to the nearest Iberia Air office to pay for the changes because I have a paper ticket (Iberia is the nominal carrier for the flight to Madrid, though it is actually operated by El Al). Can't pay over the phone, or even at the airport, but I have to go to the office, which is in Tel Aviv - halfway across the country. Of course, I'm not too excited about going to Tel Aviv without a passport, and that brings us back to the beginning again. whew.

Okay, enough complaining (almost), some good adventure news. On Saturday I went on a hike with a group that goes every month to some interesting place. Apparently the regional council (I don't actually know what this is) arranges a monthly hike with a guide from the field school. This trip was to the south about 2 hours - almost all the way to Eilat on the Red Sea coast. It was a really spectacular area, quite different from here. That area gets about 20mm of rain per year (about 3/4 inch). We started in a strange little settlement in the mountains above the Arava valley (the rift valley that forms the border with Jordan). The settlement had 19 families, and looked like it would fall apart in a good wind, though it had been there for 20 years. Strange place. Then we headed off into the desert. It was bloody cold. That day there were all sorts of record low temperatures set around the country. I'm continually amazed at how cold it can be, even though the temperature is above freezing. Not sure if it's my clothes, my acclimation, or some strange atmospheric thing, but I've been freezing here all winter, and especially at the beginning of the hike.

So we started off and hiked for about 10 minutes to the edge of the cliffs overlooking the Arava. There, we stopped for breakfast - I forgot to mention that the bus left at a very uncivilized 6:30am. So, we paused, and from nowhere, little camp stoves appeared out of the desert. This is something ubiquitous in Israel. Any time Israelis go on a hike, they take their tea/coffee kits with them. Even if it is the only thing they bring and it's 45C out, they bring coffee kits. These things are amazing - it usually has a carrying case, and contains a little burner that sits on a fuel canister, a small pan for water, 3-5 small glass cups, tea, coffee, water, and lots of sugar. Amazing little kits, and people here are so quick with them that I didn't even have time to set my backpack down before there were 5 of them burning away trying to boil water (the group had about 20 people in it). Amazing. So we ate, and drank, and froze, for about 30 min, before heading out again. Once we started walking, the temperature was bearable, especially when the wind died down and the sun came out. We walked down a spectacular wadi, with very little vegetation until about 11am, when we stopped for tea at the top of a waterfall (with no water of course). Really interesting area that I'd love to show you, but all 4 sets of camera batteries that I took were flat, so no photos. We hiked for another hour, had more tea, and finally ended up on the main highway through the Arava. There, we stopped at an ancient Byzantine ruin that apparently had just been excavated 2 years ago. the saying here is that if you start digging anywhere in Israel, you will find an ancient ruin.

Well, the Christmas season is here, sort of. The Latino contingent here is planning a big Christmas dinner for the 24th. should be interesting. That's pretty much it. I think there might be a student party one night also. And Jane kindly sent me a DVD of Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer, so we'll probably have a showing of that sometime this week - Thanks Jane, you rock!

I think that about catches me up to date. Or at least I can't remember anything else to talk about right now. I'll try to write more often.