Lizard Man's Travels

This site is a journal of my travels and other adventures while I shift from doing postdoctoral research on tree frog ecology in Darwin, Australia, to research on digestive physiology of lizards and bats in Sede Boqer, Israel. Enough friends have been asking me for regular updates on this journey, that I thought this would be the best forum to keeep everyone up to date (including me).

Tuesday, May 30, 2006

Nightcliff sunset


Nightcliff sunset
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
On my ride home the other day, there was a pretty spectacular sunset. I watched as this cloud went from a dull pink to something that looked like it was on fire. Definitely a good time to be riding home along the Nightcliff foreshore.

Nightcliff sunset


Nightcliff sunset
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Sunset along the Nightcliff foreshore.

Nightcliff jetty


Nightcliff jetty
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
The jetty at Nightcliff. This is on my ride home from the university in the evening. A nice commute, really.

Nightcliff rocks


Nightcliff rocks
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Rocks at high tide along the Nightcliff foreshore.

Palm on red


Palm on red
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
I was just out walking this weekend and though the light against this building was worth photographing. A couple of them came out well, I think.

red building


red building
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
A local building with a catchy color.

light on red


light on red
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.

Saturday, May 27, 2006

Dry Season weather

One sure way to tell whether it is really the dry season in Darwin is to pay close attention to what is in the air. During the wet season, most of the air is actually water. At the beginning of the dry season, it is mostly dragonflies. Shortly after that, the air is mostly smoke. Today, the air is mostly smoke. Actually, it has been pretty interesting today. There is a big fire burning to the south, which is filling the air with smoke and ash. I biked home from the university just after dark, and it was a clear enough night that I could see the cloud of smoke trailing off to the north. The really impressive thing was the red glow coming from the front of the fire. Looked like a nice sunset, except that it was in the south. Amazing. On the ride home, I was bombarded by ash and burned leaves which have been steadily falling all evening. Of course, since it was a nice sunny day with dry air (good for fires I guess) I decided to do a load of laundry. It will be interesting to see if it ends up smelling like a camping trip when it's dry.

Otherwise, it was a pretty normal day. I went to the field site in Humpty Doo to see how things are progressing there. It's been a bit of a strange transition season because of all of the late rain (and cyclone) we got this year. So, it's still pretty wet out there, as my boots can attest. There are still a few frogs calling, but they're not very serious about it. While wandering around, I tried to catch some lizards for Seb. Lots of those around, but they insisted on running up very tall trees - several meters above the reach of my noose. I tried climbing one paperbark tree, but the lizard was much better at climbing than I was. I only made it 5m off the ground, and it was about twice that height, perched nicely on top of the very tallest leaves. Oh well. I tried.

Wednesday, May 24, 2006

The hard life of a carnie

If this doesn't illustrate how hard the carnival life is, I don't know what does.

Fred's pass clowns


Fred's pass clowns
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
There's something disturbing about these clowns.

Fred's pass dogs


Fred's pass dogs
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Some of the fabulous prizes at the carnival.

Bumper Cars


Bumper Cars
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Jake needed to ride the bumper cars - twice. Not so sure Karen liked the ride as much as he did, though.

Fred's Pass burger


Fred's Pass burger
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
There's nothing like having a buffalo burger at the local rural show. I went to Fred's Pass show this weekend with Keith and family. Good fun.

Sunday, May 21, 2006

3 Movies, Some Livestock, and a Jazz Band

For some reason, most of the movies I've seen lately have been subtitled, and several have been filmed in the middle-east. I should back up a step and mention that it is the dry season here in Darwin, which means that the town has awakened a bit, with various outdoor concerts, festivals, shows (fairs), and of course, the Deckchair Cinema. The Deckchair is an outdoor movie theater that shows various independent, foreign, second run, and local (Australian) films, and it's a true Darwin experience. So, last week I went to see Ushpizin - an Israeli comedy about a former delinquent, who has become very religious, and has some less than wholesome visitors during one of the Jewish holidays. It's quite funny and gives a lighthearted peek into the very religious Jews of Jerusalem. This week, I saw Paradise Now, sort of the opposite end of the spectrum (in several ways). That's the Palestinian film about a suicide bombing that goes wrong. Not particularly funny, and certainly politically charged, but very much worth seeing. The third film was actually on DVD - Walk on Water. It's an Israeli film about a Mossad assasin who is asked to befriend the grandson of a Nazi war criminal to see if he can get information. It's interesting, says a bit about how some Israelis deal with the Holocaust. So, if you're interested in reading a movie (or speak Hebrew, German, and Arabic), I'd recommend these films.

Yesterday, I went to the Fred's Pass Rural show, sort of a small county fair, with Keith and family. It was fun, but we missed the chopping competition (you know couple of burly guys whacking their way through a large log with an axe). Plenty of carefully rigged carnival games, some not too dodgy looking rides, lots of booths of various crafts, politicians, schools, and machinery. And of course, livestock. Not as much as the Darwin show, but some good looking chooks, cows, and a handfull of ducks. This being the Territory, there was also a reptile show, but that cost $2 to get in, so we didn't go. Oh, and a rugby (league?) game, which was very one-sided. I didn't last to the rodeo or the fireworks, but Keith and Jake stayed for those.

So, before going to the film tonight, I went to see the first night of the new Jazz at Sunset series of outdoor concerts at the local casino (used to be MGM Grand, now it's called Sky City). There was a Jazz group called Monica and the Moochers tonight. It was an interesting evening. They were pretty good, but I was a bit frustrated by the setup. They started at 18:00 with a short instrumental set (just the Moochers), which was decent. That was followed by a "short break" of about 40 minutes, during which the venue played an entire Michael Buble CD. Not he's one of those guys that I grudgingly admit has a good voice, but I just can't bring myself to like him. The music's fine and he's got a good band behind him, but I just don't like the guy. And they just popped in a CD and let us sit there on the grass for most of an hour. Finally, the Moochers returned with Monica trailing along. She was also pretty good, though she was trying so hard to make the show suggestively racy, that it seemed better suited to one of the lounges inside than an outdoor, family event. Now, I have nothing against a bit of rauch with jazz, I'm all for it in fact, but this seemed somehow out of place. I ended up leaving 15 minutes into the second set to catch the movie.

As I was sitting, flabergasted by the endless Michale Buble music, I was thinking about the jazz bands I'd played in back in high school and at Colorado State, and all of the talent that was in those groups. Now, I thought the group tonight was good, not great, but decent. And I was sitting there thinking that I'd played with individuals on each of their instruments, who were better than these guys were. Really made me appreciate those days with Malcolm, Tim, Scott, Mike, Craig, Devin, and Paul, Phil, Daryl, Mark, Darrin, Duane, and the rest. I was really lucky to get to play with those guys. We made some good music and had some great times. And we never had Michael Buble playing in between sets.

Sunday, May 14, 2006

Frog float


Frog float
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Wet season sunset, with frog.

Thursday, May 11, 2006

Nubian ibex


Nubian ibex
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
I went for a walk in the wadi below Sede Boqer one evening, and found this friendly face looking down at me.

Only in Israel


religious fervor
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
So, Gaston, Pacho, Michal and I were on our way to the mall to see Ice Age II, when we came across these guys. Actually we could hear them from about a kilometer away, even though they were at a busy bus station. They were blasting some dance music, which I assume had the words changed to be quite religious (it was in Hebrew, so I have no idea). The guy on top of the van was dancing for at least an hour (after that we were deaf and had to leave). Only in Israel...

3 guys and a lot of toilet paper

It's a rite of passage in Sede Boqer to buy a huge package of toilet paper in Beersheva. The trick is figuring out how to get it home on the bus. You should have seen the look on the security guard's face when Pacho, Michal, Gaston and I opened this bag for inspection on the way to see Ice Age II. Of course, Gaston followed this up by showing the 10kg of laundry soap in his bag. Certainly a wild afternoon in Beersheva!

Irodium cicutelum


Irodium cicutelum
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
This little plant is a big invader in the Mojave desert, but it's native in the Negev, and this year was in full bloom around Sede Boqer.

Sede Boqer sunset


Sede Boqer sunset
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
The light at sunset really plays well off the rocky outside of the student dorms in Sede Boqer. Some amazing spring sunsets (and weather) while I was there this year.

Mickett Lily


Mickett Lily
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
Once the water comes in at our Mickett Creek site, we get a lot of aquatic plants around. Some are really gorgeous.

Darwin rock


Darwin rock
Originally uploaded by wandering lizard.
I went for a walk along the beach with John a few weeks ago. We found some rocks with these amazing patterns and colors.

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

Back to Darwin

I managed to get back to Darwin again this weekend, after some minor transport adventures in Israel. There is a very nice, new train line that runs from Beersheva to Tel Aviv, and then you can transfer to a line that goes right to the front door of the airport. Easy, right? And if you catch the connection just right, you can do it all in under 2 hours. So, I had arranged one ride to Beersheva in time to get me to the train station with enough time to get to the airport the necessary 3 hours before my flight left (Israeli security can take a while). Pacho was going to return the rental car he got to pick up his parents at the airport a couple of days before. Unfortunately, they couldn't resist the lure of the Dead Sea, so had decided to get up at 5:30 in the morning to go for a float. Too early for me, so I decided to just take the bus. No problem, done this before many times. Just before getting on the bus, I got a call from Berry - apparently his son had just called from up north complaining that the train lines to Beersheva were blocked, and no trains were running.

So, on to plan two - I'd just take the bus from Beersheva to the Tel Aviv train station, then catch the train to the airport. Still simple, right? Well, it was Friday (the first day of the weekend), and there were a whole trainload of people trying to get to Tel Aviv. When I got to the bay for the bus to Tel Aviv, there were about 200 people looking eager to get on the bus, most of them soldiers. That bus runs every half hour, and there are two separate buses that run the same route, so I figured I'd just work on positioning myself for the next one. Now, Israelis are, how shall I put it, rather aggressive in the way they line up for the bus. No that doesn't really do justice to what I saw. I think English football fans would be shocked at how aggressive things get trying to get on the bus, particularly the ones on Friday when the train line is out of service. So I watched one bus fill with people (mostly soldiers - somehow they are more adept at shoving their way through a mob), then another, then another and a fourth. Somehow, in defiance of most laws of physics and mathematics, the crowd wasn't getting any smaller, but I did manage to get myself positioned in the prime spot: directly in front of where the luggage bay door would be, and as close to the entrance door as possible. So the next bus came, I shoved aside some soldiers, and crammed my suitcase into the luggage bin, and joined the mob trying to actually get on the bus. It is quite an experience to be in a mob of soldiers, pushing to get through a small door that has steep steps just on the other side of it. I managed to avoid most of the rifle barrels, though there was one ammo clip that managed to lodge itself into my rib cage. After about 10 minutes of getting shoved inexorably toward the door, I finally made it onto the bus.

Unfortunately, this particular bus driver must have had some sour hummus for breakfast because, unlike all of the other bus drivers in the country, he refused to allow people onto the bus unless there was a nice, empty seat waiting. Well, the little old lady two people in front of me (I have no idea how she made it through the mob in one piece) got the last seat. After some hebrew abuse by the bus driver, the soldier in front of me explained "no room, we have to go". So we got off, plowed back through the now somewhat disgruntled, but somewhat dispersed mob and retrieved our bags from the luggage compartment. I'm not sure how the bus could have been full, because there certainly wasn't much luggage left when we all got done retrieving our bags. Anyway, after missing 6 busses (3 sets of 2), with no obvious guarantee that I would make it onto the next, I started getting a bit worried that I'd never make it to the airport.

Fortunately, there is always a taxi around when you least want to pay for one. So I hailed a taxi, and for a mere 300 shekels (about US$70), I got a comfortable ride right to the front door of the airport. There are some advantages to having a country small enough to take a taxi halfway across the length of it.

The rest of the trip was pretty uneventful. I breezed through security faster than ever, and was through all of the various checks in about an hour. So I had a bit of a nap next to the very serene fountain in the middle of the terminal. At least Ben Gurion airport is quite a pleasant airport to hang around in for a couple of hours. Then 5 hours to London, 2 hours in Heathrow, and 12 1/2 hours to Singapore, where I had a nice shower and a massage, along with some nice green curry chicken. I did manage to get several hours of sleep on the plane - just enough that when I started watching a movie (Jarhead), I got about 3/4 of the way through it by the time we landed. Nothing more frustrating than seeing 3/4 of a decent movie, that isn't quite good enough to justify going out and paying to see the whole thing again so you can see the last 20 minutes of it. I did make it all the way through "Good night and good luck" though, which is an excellent movie. So after the relaxation in Singapore, I got back on the plane for the last 4 1/2 hours to Darwin. Turns out that Qantas has On Demand movies, so I got to fast forward through the first 1 1/2 hours of Jarhead, and saw the rest. Then another movie (Amores Perros) and it was 4:30 in the morning and we were landing in Darwin. (note for those who read my last rant about overseas flights - I missed another 2 nights of sleep on this leg. That brings my total to 6 nights lost on this trip. I think I'll be asleep for the rest of May to recover). I slept most of Sunday, and am now trying to get back onto some sort of reasonable sleep schedule. Since it is now almost 2:30am, I think it is safe to say I'm failing miserably. At least the weather has been nice sice I've been back...

Wednesday, May 03, 2006

floods, interviews, and cyclones, oh my

It's been quite a month. I'll start with the Katherine river floods. Actually, I'll back up just before that. In the week before leaving for my interview at UW-Milwaukee, Keith and I were expecting John (from my Dad's lab group) to arrive with a wind tunnel for our frog experiments. The day after he arrived, we had planned a trip out to Wave Hill station (about 800km south of Darwin, at the edge of the Tanami desert) to set up some dataloggers for our project on algae communitites under quartz rocks. We were getting worried that we had missed the end of the wet season, and weren't going to get microclimate data for this year. Well, we shouldn't have worried - turns out mother nature wasn't done with us yet. The day that John came, the Katherine river was flooding. Seriously flooding.

For those who don't know your Top End geography very well, the Katherine River drains part of a big escarpment over Kakadu National Park and Arnhem land. It is a large river, with a deep gorge, and a large catchment area that is mosly over bare rock, so when it rains, the water quickly runs into the river and fills up the gorge a little. Well, We had huge rainfalls over the town of Katherine and the catchment, so the river filled completely. So much that it flowed over the Stuart Highway, which is the only road connecting Katherine, Darwin, and the rest of the Top End to the rest of Australia. Now the really amazing part is that the bridge over the river is about 18.5m (about 60 feet) above ground level at Katherine. Well, the river crested at just over 20.5m. That's a lot of water. Fortunately for us, we decided not to go, or we would have been stuck on the other side of the river, in the middle of nowhere until the water receded. (when I say the middle of nowhere, I mean it - the next town on the other side of the river is about 400km away, at least in the direction we were headed).

So, we averted that disaster, and focused on building the wind tunnel, and retrieving frogs from the field that had been fitted with radio transmitters. Of course, with the huge storm to the south, we had beautiful weather in Darwin. We finished the wind tunnel, caught the frogs, and John headed back to Reno.

That left me with two days to finish preparing for my interview in Milwaukee. No problem. Well, okay, other than a ridiculous amount of travel, no problem. My flights went smoothly, but it is a long haul to get from Darwin to Milwaukee. My first flight was at 2:00am, arriving in Brisbane at 6:00 am (1st night of sleep lost). Then I had 4 hours of layover, before getting on the flight to Los Angeles - 12 1/2 hours, arriving at 6:30am (2nd night of sleep loss). At this point, I hopped in a taxi and visited my Aunt and Uncle in Manhattan Beach. A shower, some breakfast, and I was ready to go back. I had arranged to meet Trai and David (friends from way back), so we went for a bite to eat, and they dropped me back at the airport in time for my 5:40pm flight. I arrived in Milwaukee at 11:30 pm - 38 hours after leaving Darwin, down 2 nights of sleep, and with an internal clock that was about 10 1/2 hours out of sync. I had one full day to recover before the interview started.

At 8:00 am Monday, the interview began. I met the committee chair in the lobby of my hotel and we had breakfast and talked about the position, etc. At 9:00 am, I met with the department chair; 10:00 with the search committee; 11:00 facilities tour; 12:00 lunch with the vertebrate biologists; 1:30 prep for seminar; 2:00 seminar; 3:30 field station tour; 7:00 dinner; 9:30 collapse in a heap. Whew, day one ended, and things were going pretty well as far as I could tell. On day two, I was picked up at the hotel at 8:30, and went along with half-hour meetings with individual faculty members all day until about 4:00 pm, when we retired to the student union for a beer. Interview done. Wow, what a whirl. In all, the job sounded great after the interview, and I thought things went well. Of course, there is no way to know how well I did relative to others, so now I'm waiting for the final decision, which is supposed to happen the first week of May.

After the interview, things didn't slow down much. I went to Madison and spent a day working on a manuscript with Bill Karasov. The next day I met up with some friends - Danielle for tea/lunch, Jane in mid-afternoon, and Pat & Bernadette in the evening. Of course Pat and Bernadette coerced me into playing frisbee - goaltimate actually, which is a fun variant on ultimate. After that, we retired to the Great Dane for dinner, followed by a bit of a soak in their hot tub. The next day, back to Milwaukee, for some Karaoke fun, a Brewer's game (where they hit 5 home runs in a single inning - tying a major league record), some wandering around Milwaukee, and general catching up with Kiersten, Greg and Ron.

This Wisconsin mayhem was followed by another exhausting flight to Israel. I left Chicago at 11:30pm (why are these international flights always scheduled so you lose a night's sleep?!?!), and arrived in London at 11:00 am for a 12 hour layover. I decided to head into town and visited the British Museum. Great stuff. Too bad London is so bloody expensive. I'm pretty sure I spent more for that one day in London than I did for the entire week in Wisconsin, and all I did was take the Underground to the museum, had a light meal and a pint, and returned! So, at 11:00 pm, I got back on the plane for the 5 hour trip to Tel Aviv (note the lost night of sleep again), followed by a train ride, and a bus trip to finally arrive in Sede Boqer at about 11:00 am. Ugh.

Being here has been interesting. I'll talk about it next time, but for now I'll just complain about jetlag. I managed the first 10 1/2 hour change okay for the interview. I suspect that was mostly adrenaline, but it worked. The second 8 hour change has killed me. I muddled through the first day and a half here okay, but the following day I was totally dead. I'm pretty sure I slept a total of 18 hours that day, and another 12 the next day. Amazing. A word of advice - don't make 8+ hour time shifts until you have fully acclimated to your current time zone, or you'll be sorry. I'm dreading the last one back to Australia. Of course, it doesn't help much that each leg of my trip has involved losing 2 nights of sleep. On the last leg, it will be the same - 2 nights of sleep lost, arriving at 4:30am. Ugh. I may sleep until June.